The Dutch smoked sausage is having a difficult time in Europe: a ban on unique ‘smoke aroma’ is in the air

Who says kale, says smoked sausage. Since an Amsterdam shopkeeper started selling hot sausages in 1938, they have never disappeared from the streets; Unilever (owner of Unox) sold about sixteen million last year. However, that may soon change. On Wednesday, a European Union food committee will discuss a possible ban on the flavorings that give sausage its characteristic smoky taste.

What is going on? Since the 1970s, smoked sausages have no longer actually been smoked over a wood fire, but boiled. A lot healthier, because smoke contains all kinds of carcinogenic substances such as so-called volatile organic molecules and Paks, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons.

Nowadays, added flavorings provide the characteristic smoky taste. This is not only the case with smoked sausages, but also with other products with a smoked flavor, such as chips with a barbecue flavor and vegetarian sausages. These so-called smoke aromas are made by capturing the smoke from burning wood with a liquid and then filtering it.

Can damage DNA

The European food authority Efsa now has concerns about these smoke flavorings. Of the eight different variants currently permitted, six contain ingredients that may be carcinogenic. And this cannot be excluded from the other two. This was the conclusion of an EFSA working group led by Dutch toxicologist Wim Mennes last autumn. This includes substances such as benzenediol, catechol and formaldehyde. According to several studies with mice and human cell cultures, these can damage DNA, which increases the risk of cancer and birth defects. Processed meat is already suspected because it increases the risk of diabetes and cancer. Therefore, eat it in moderation, the Nutrition Center advises.

The Efsa came up with its advice because the ten-year permit for the flavorings expires on July 1. The fact that the funds were approved earlier is because the assessment methods at the time were less good than they are now, Mennes writes in an explanation on the Efsa site. The European rules on toxicity have also become stricter.

Ivonne Rietjens, professor of toxicology at Wageningen University, understands the food authority’s advice. ‘The European Union has a zero-tolerance policy when it comes to substances that damage DNA. These may not be added to food. That in itself is good, because it offers consumers confidence.’

The question is whether the same consumer would be better off with a ban, she continues. In theory, companies could start smoking their products the old-fashioned way again, over a wood fire. ‘That’s a lot unhealthy. The concentration of carcinogenic substances in such a product can be much higher than in smoke flavorings. If you ask which smoked sausage I, as a toxicologist, would rather eat, then I know.’ Moreover, when products have been smoked in the traditional way, this is not always stated on the label, the TV program noted Inspection Service of Value just yet.

Don’t immediately fear for your health

Anyone who loves smoked sausage does not immediately have to fear for their health, Rietjens emphasizes. ‘I wouldn’t worry so much. These smoke flavorings only increase the cancer risk very slightly, but legally speaking they increase it too much.’ For example, you ingest a lot more carcinogenic substances while barbecuing, she puts things into perspective. ‘Especially if the smoke ends up in the meat. And people also enjoy barbecuing en masse. You can never completely rule out risks. Even your body produces carcinogenic substances on its own.’

What next, should the aromas really be banned? It is a conflict that is not easy to solve, according to the professor. ‘I can imagine that producers will see whether they can purify the ingredients even better without losing the flavours.’

Legally speaking, old-fashioned smoking of food is also allowed, as an alternative, because there are no regulations on this. “But that is not a direction we want to go in,” a Unilever spokesperson said on the telephone. ‘It is also harmful to the environment.’ The company hopes that there will be a transition period if the flavorings are actually banned.